48 hours in picturesque Broke
When one thinks of the Hunter Valley, Pokolbin typically comes to mind as the central hub of activity. Broke is one of those regions that boasts its own allure, a slower pace that seems indifferent to the outside world.
Leaving behind the hustle and bustle of the city, Broke holds secrets within its vineyard-laden hills. Curiosity piques as you embark on a two-day excursion to unravel the mysteries of this somewhat enigmatic wine region.
The first stop is at Mount Broke Wines. The breathtaking Yellow Rock in the distance, set against a blue sky with cumulus clouds, creates a stunning backdrop. The winery’s French bistro is bustling with activity. Amongst the jovial chaos, owner Phil McNamara greets me, shares details about the area’s soils, and introduces his fresh, textural, and food-friendly wines.
From the crisp Verdelho with notes of sweet lime and green apple to the orange-driven Albariño, the wines pair perfectly with seafood. The Bella Blanca, a harmonious blend of Albariño and Pecorino, leaves a lasting impression with tropical undertones, complementing my fish main course beautifully. Mount Broke Restaurant & Bar is a must-visit spot for lunch, and a bottle of Bella Blanca is a recommended takeaway.
A visit to Whispering Brook reveals the Portuguese varieties thriving in the subtropical Hunter climate. The Arinto, with its natural acidity and almost Riesling-esque character, hints at the future potential of Broke’s wine industry. Winemakers Susan Frazier and Adam Bell, inspired by their time in Iberia, successfully planted varieties that handle high humidity and heat well, starting with Touriga Nacional grafted over Shiraz in 2008, followed by Arinto.
Moments later at The Little Wine Company, Suzanne Little shares her passion for varietals like Pecorino and Vermentino. These climate-adaptable, mildew-resistant varieties offer a refreshing choice to the region’s traditional Semillon and Shiraz. The Little Wine Company was born as a point of difference and an outlook into the future.
Their production is never stagnant, and experimentation lies at the heart of Suzanne and Ian Little’s approach. They grew many different varieties throughout the years. There was Viognier, Merlot, Petit Verdot… But the heat-loving Mediterranean grapes proved to be the mainstay.
Exploring Broke further reveals not only exceptional wines, but a rich tapestry of history and culture. Entrepreneur and art enthusiast Karin Adcock shares her vision for a sculpture park and art gallery at Winmark Wines. The estate, renamed from Poole’s Rock to Winmark (Dutch for “field of wine”), offers visitors a glimpse into Broke’s artistic soul. Karin operates the business along with a strong viticultural and winemaking team behind her, amongst them are Liz Reily, Dave Grosser, John Belsham and Xante Hatcher.
Winmark focuses solely on Chardonnay, offering four wines ranging from the entry-level Rusty’s Run to the top-tier Icon 7 2. It’s a Chardonnay planted in 1972 from Tyrrell’s cuttings of Short Flat Vineyard. All Chardonnays are delightful, building their intensity and complexity as they climb the price ladder. The Icon 7 2 is a potent, spice and matchstick-laden wine designed for aging.
At the end of the day, I retreat to Winmark’s Villa Vino which provides a serene escape. This white-painted chalet, reminiscent of a small chapel, is the ideal getaway.
Reluctantly bidding farewell to Broke, there is a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this small wine region’s quiet charm. While Pokolbin may be the centre of tourist attractions, Broke’s wine community has a unique story to tell and a bright future ahead.
Find more like this in our Spring Edition of Hunter & Coastal Lifestyle Magazine or subscribe here.
Story by Kasia Sobiesiak.
